Archive for the ‘Cache Containers’ Category

It’s that time of year again. Time for my annual trip to Flagstaff to check on the geocaches I placed there.

Some new geocachers get started, get a few finds under their belt and then decide to HIDE a geocache without ever realizing that there is on-going work associated with it.

Geocaching.com simply says:

• Owner is responsible for geocache page upkeep.
• Owner is responsible for visits to the physical location.

 

But what does that MEAN? That means that as the cache placer you need to be ready to go check on your cache if you get notes saying that it needs maintenance. Notes might be that the log is wet or full. Or the cache seemed to be either too hard to too easy to located.

In the case of The Quiet Zone GC1X2F5 two years ago a BEAR made off with the cache. Or at least the cache disappeared over the winter. Since I live 200 miles away, I temporarily archived the cache and send a note into the review letting him know that I had a trip planned to check on the cache.

 

When I went, I went prepared to replace the cache if I couldn’t find it. I replaced the container and updated the coordinates and it was good to go!

As a cache placer, I am responsible for occasional (but regular) visits to make sure everything is a-okay. In the case of caches that are far away from me (like my Flagstaff caches) I have a few caching buddies that I can always call upon to take a quick look if I’m too busy.

And those occasional visits are why geocaching.com requests that caches are not placed while you’re traveling on vacation or for business. If you live a 4 hour plane ride away, how is it feasible for you to check on a cache every time you get a report of a wet log? But, it is possible to place a cache and then have it adopted by a local cacher or to even have a non-geocaching friend maintain it.

If a cache is not being maintained, or has been “temporarily” disabled for an unreasonable length of time, we may archive the listing.

When I’m placing a new cache, I always ask myself these three questions:

1. How often can I visit?
2. How easy is it for me to visit?
3. Do I have time to maintain another cache?

Readers Weigh In:

• How many geocaches have you placed?
• How often do you check on them?

I’m an “honorary” member of about a dozen geocaching groups and organizations across the country. One of the most active groups is Central Florida Area Geocachers (CFLAG) on Facebook.

This week, one of their wonderful members, trippy1976, posted a compiliation of the group’s recommended containers for Florida. But, this is a FANTASTIC list and I wanted to share it with all my geocaching friends. It’s a good guideline for containers no matter where you live!

Recommended Containers For Cache Hides in Florida

Compiled from the combined wisdom of CFLAG participants:

Field Tested

Containers that have a proven track record in Florida include:

• ammo cans (any size)
• match safes
• soda bottle pre-forms
• Lock & Locks (brand name)
• Real Bison Design tubes

With these containers, you have a tremendous amount of diversity, allowing you to make a quality hide, in almost any environment while ensuring your cache will stand the test of the elements. Your logbook will thank you!

Things To Avoid

Any container that REQUIRES that you use a baggie to protect your log (rather than a baggie being a second line of defense).  Your container should be waterproof if exposed.

Over the years, we’ve seen certain containers that are almost predestined to fail. These include, but are not limited to:

• coffee tubs (plastic or metal)
• imitation Bison tubes
• Dollar Store Lock & Lock wanna bes
• Altoids tins
• margarine tubs
• slim bobs
• black & grey film cans
• Gladware
• cookie tins
• hide-a-keys

Readers Weigh In:

• Do you have any suggestions to add?

Container Sizes Explained

When I got started in geocaching, I had no idea that caches actually came in different sizes. As a newbie cacher, I was like a little kid: all about the swag! The thrill of trading toys in the woods hasn’t really worn off either; I really only go for caches that are big enough for trade items.

However, I know some people who live and breathe for micros. Or, the evil little brother of a mico: the nano.

But, if you’re new to geocaching, you’re probably scratching your head and wondering just what I’m talking about. So, here are cache container sizes explained!

The first place you can see a cache’s size is on the list of caches when you run a search. But, don’t use this chart as the gospel truth of the cache size. I found a cache that was listed as a “small” but was really just a log sheet stuffed behind a sign!

Cache Sizes

Large – This is listed as the size of a 5 gallon bucket. I’m not really sure how many caches this size exist. I know I’ve never seen one listed in my area, let alone actually found it!

Regular – A regular is an ammo can, nut jar, or other container that is about the size of a 3 pound coffee can. There will be plenty of room for trade items and trackable items.

Small – This is defined as holding a log book and a few trade items. I classify my favorite cache containers as a small. A small may or may not hold a trackable item; it just depends on the size and shape of the traveler.

Micro – a 35mm film canister size. This typically means a log sheet and nothing else. Bring your own pen.

Nano – This is an unofficial cache size. It isn’t recognized as a real size by geocaching.com but anybody who’s hunted for a cache that’s so tiny it uses 1/4″tall strip of paper for a “log book” will agree this is a far cry from a micro!

Not-Specified – Sometimes the hider of the geocache doesn’t actually say what size cache it is. That can be fun or it can be frustrating. Usually on this “size” I read through the logs to find out if trade items were left, and if so, what types of items. You can pretty much figure that if they say they left a Happy Meal toy that it’s not a micro!

Each cache’s unique page will also have the cache size listed. If you’re not sure if the size is listed correctly, scan through the logs. Usually, if a cache is listed as a regular and it’s really a small, somebody will have mentioned it in a log or two.

If you’re just getting started, I recommend going for Regular or Small caches since it is more fun to FIND the caches when you’re new. As your geosense develops then start going after the micros.

And if you’re caching with kids: decide if the FIND is more important or if they like the SWAG. My other advice for caching with kids is to make sure they have fun and are successful. Most of the kid cachers I know define successful as finding the cache!

The more you geocache, the better you get at finding the container. I think most geocachers have a favorite size of container that they go for.

You can buy some really interesting geocaching containers on Amazon.com

For the experienced cachers:

• What is your favorite cache size?
• And for everybody who loves finding micros and nanos — what advice do you offer to get somebody started with that?

You’ve decided to hide a geocache. You’ve got the perfect container but now you have to do the camouflage. Ah, camouflage, one of the most important factors in hiding a geocache. I’ll be covering some tips & suggestions on how to doctor up your cache!

I’ve found some pretty-cool micros (okay, so I had a caching buddy point them out to me since I don’t really do micros) and I’ve found some caches with amazing camouflage. This article is how to put camouflage on an ordinary, run-of-the-mill cache.

Picking Your Container

Not everyone is lucky enough to have a ton of ammo cans laying about to be made into geocaches. So if you need to use a plastic container, here are my recommendations.

• Make sure it has a tight-fitting lid.
• The wider the mouth, the better. Even if it is clearly too small for anything but a log sheet, somebody will try to cram a trade item in it sooner or later!
• No glass containers! (I’ve seriously found a few)
• I prefer plastic to tin. Cookie tins (and the like) seem to rust very easily. And they’re very difficult to water proof.
• Make sure it is clean inside and out.
• If you’re using a recycled food jar (nuts, peanut butter, etc) make sure it is very clean or the smell can attract critters.
• I tend to stay away from the plastic coffee cans. The lids don’t hold up after repeated openings (especially in the cold!) and the containers seem brittle and flimsy.

My container of choice is actually a used Tucks container. It’s a small size (easier to hide and easy to fill with swag), pretty much free since I have my whole family saving them for me, it’s practically waterproof, and very sturdy container.

Since I have a lot of these containers, I like to spray paint them. It took me a while, but I figured out the best way to get it done.

Painting Supplies

• Container & lid to be painted (be sure you’ve removed any paper labels!)
• Dark green spray paint
• Dark brown spray paint
• Black spray paint
• Thin wire or thin string (8 inches or so)
• Garden kneeling pad
• Clothes you’re okay with (maybe) getting paint on

First, make sure the container is dry and dust free. It’s not really hard to spray paint the container but it’s a pain if the paint flakes off because the container was dusty. (Been there, done that!)

This can be kind of tricky but once you get the hang of it, it’s a really good painting technique! Take the lid off the container. Fold about two inches of wire or string over the threads of the lid so there’s an inch inside the container and the rest is on the outside of the container. Holding the wire in place, screw the lid back on.

If you’ve pinched everything correctly, then you now have a “handle” to use to hold onto the container while you paint. I use bits of old phone wire since is it VERY thin and very flexible. I’ve never tried it, but I bet embroidery floss or monofilament fishing line would work as well.

You’re ready to paint!

When working with spray paint, be sure to remember:

• Work in a well-ventilated area. Outside is even better.
• Don’t use spray paint on a windy day. It just makes a mess.
• Wear gloves (latex is good), a dust mask, and safety glasses.
• Use the paint away from cars, buildings, and vegetation.

My favorite spray painting spot is at the end of my parent’s driveway. I can’t get paint on their house or cars if I tried! I’m blocked from any breeze by a large bush and there’s a shade tree.

I like to kneel on my garden kneeling pad since I feel it gives me the best control of the paint AND the container.

Holding the container by the wire or string, give it a coat of green. You don’t need to worry if the paint is even or if it covers all writing. Let it dry. (Or mostly dry if you’re like me and impatient!)

Still holding the container by the string, paint a coat of brown. Let it dry. Repeat with the black spray paint.

Once I have all three colors on the container, I start to think about making sure I have the bottom of the container. It’s a bit hard to paint, but the part that is hanging the lowest needs to be painted. Now, just keep layering the spray paint until you’re happy with the coloring.

Wrap the wire around a tree limb and hang to dry completely.

I like to paint a bunch of containers all at once. That way I can hang them in the shade tree between coats. If you let the paint dry completely before painting it with a different color, it’s less likely to scratch off.

Okay, I know not everybody will be able to hang their caches containers in a tree to dry. Just remember that the paint WILL drip and can still rub off on other items.

Sometimes, a Tucks container is too small. The other container I like is a nut jar. However, the plastic is thinner and doesn’t survive very many cachers dropping it. The corners are especially vulnerable to becoming cracked.

Taping Supplies

• Clean, dry container with lid
• Camouflage duct tape
• Sharp scissors

What I like to do with a lighter-weight plastic container is to cover it with duct tape. You can buy duct tape in a variety of camouflage patterns and colors. Here’s a link to camouflage duct tape on Cabela’s and here’s a link to camouflage duct tape on Amazon.

This stuff is more expensive than plain old grey but come on! How cool is camouflage duct tape!?

Here are some things to consider with duct tape:

• The container really needs to be clean and dry.
• The bigger the pieces of tape the better. You want it to really stick to the container so water and dirt can’t get under the tape and cause it to lift.
• Remember that the tape sticks to itself! (I don’t know how many inches I’ve ruined because of that!)
• Cut it rather than tearing. You get a cleaner edge and fewer places where water and dust can get under the tape.
• Start by taping any areas that don’t lend them to large pieces of tape. (The shoulders and bottom of the jar, for example!) That way, you can cover the ends with a longer strip.
• Be sure to really PUSH on the tape so it adheres to the plastic.

Getting the tape on the container smoothly is a lot harder than it looks! It takes practice.

The lid is one of the hardest parts of the jar to tape up. I do it first, still attached to the jar. That way, I know I’m not taping it TO the jar and then it won’t come off!

Next, I do the “shoulders” and bottom of the jar. Remember to keep the pieces as large as possible, avoid creases as much as possible, and really push the tape onto the surface of the container.

Then, just finish wrapping the container in tape until it’s completely covered. This jar took three strips going from top to bottom.

So, all you experienced cachers out there:

How do you put camouflage on the cache? Do you prefer tape or paint? What’s your favorite method of getting a run-of-the-mill cache ready to be placed?